We had a small crowd last night – sorry if my late information caused anyone trouble….
Here’s what you missed….
Gale demonstrated putting a metal clay bezel around a piece of pottery or china. NOTE: transfer-ware works best. Some glazed pottery loses color upon high-temp firing, so test fire the pottery first or you may end up with a color-less piece! This sample - which is still adorable - originally also had a lot of dark pink, which almost completely faded.
Tips from Gale:
- Cut a “window” in the back to prevent tearing or pull-away
- Designs that span the top of shard must be anchored (with slip, not just water) to 2 or more locations of the bezel or it will straighten and shrink away from the bezel
- Wide bezels that wrap over the shard can tear upon firing. She recommends adding clay inside bezel instead. (Think window glazing….) Note the tiny tear in lower left of photo.....
- Use thin strips of clay rather than syringe clay for more precise, even look.
Those who came to the Saturday workshop at Lynette’s house saw this first….an easy and cheap way to make a metal clay turntable…..we brought beads and condiment cups last night, so everyone took one home.
Here’s a link to Wanaree Taylor’s blot – she a metal clay artist and the condiment cup spinner was her idea. http://artwarebywanaree.blogspot.com/2012/02/make-your-own-metal-clay-turntable.html . I think I’m going to glue the top of a cup to the center of a 6” square piece of matboard – so it’s less tippy.
Cecelia brought a pasta machine, some pieces of take-out box Styrofoam and leaves. Everyone present played with making a nice, FLAT texture plate. NOTE: the 2-part silicone we used last night was slightly sticky and hard to roll - it made you hands feel oily and wanted to cling to the rollers.
Cecelia used a cheap product she found at Hobby Lobby and said it was very easy to use!
This one went through the pasta machine a 2nd time, with a thin leaf. Do not change the thickness setting, or the texture material may embed into the silicone.
We were using pens, pencils and stylus on the foam -
Then mix the putty, flatten slightly and run through the pasta machine - using the thicker settings. Lay the putty over your design and using a brayer or acrylic roller, roll ONCE and step away until the molding compound sets. Don't try to re-roll or you'll get shadows or imprecise images.
When the putty has set (test with your fingernail - if it doesn't leave an impression, its done.)